Brian’s Microblog

March 15, 2026

We got to have a nice breakfast of tamales in our courtyard then we walked a bit over a mile to the Jalatlaco neighborhood where we met the tour van for our Mezcal Journey tour. We got there a bit early so we circled a block and found a bunch more nice murals.

The tour was almost full with us and seven other people. We had an interesting mix: a couple from Luxembourg, another from Scotland, from Puerto Rico, and a single guy from Texas. We drove about forty-five minutes east and a bit south of the city of Oaxaca to the town of Mitla. There we stopped at a field of cactus with some promising-looking construction that will eventually be a sort of up-scale Mezcal tasting room and maybe an area to make Mezcal.

Mezcal is sort of like Champagne - you can make fermented agave cactus drinks wherever, but it is only Mezcal if you make it in the state of Oaxaca or a few other states in Mexico. Also, there are hundreds of species of agave and Mezcal can be made from dozens of them. However, only the Espadín variety is easily cultivated, so most Mezcal is made from Espadín. Mezcal made from other varieties can be very expensive because those varieties have to be found in the wild and, while Espadín matures to harvest size in seven to ten years, many of the other varieties can take up to twenty years to mature.

At the field of Espadín we tasted our first Mezcal in what is either a traditional or touristy way: by having it poured down a long leaf of the Espadín into our mouths.

After our first drink we all got a chance to work with a machete to cut first the sharp leaf tips off the long leaves, then to cut the leaves. Drinking and machetes, safety third!

There were a couple of ‘wild’ varieties of agave growing near the field.

Then we went to the Discípulo Mezcaleria (also known as a palenque) to learn how the Mezcal is made. A few guys were clearing rocks from this pit after they had finished cooking a batch of agave hearts. The process is to put a bunch of firewood at the bottom of a big pit, then cover it with almost literally a ton of rocks. Then they light the fire and let it burn for a day or so to try to get the rocks up over a thousand degrees Celsius. When the rocks are super hot and the firewood underneath has mostly burned out, they lay down a protective layer of plant fiber left over from a previous batch, then the agave hearts, then cover it all with a tarp and a bunch of dirt. This way the agave is primarily cooked by the heat of the rocks, although some of the smoky flavor probably comes from residual firewood.

After being sealed in with the hot rocks for a day or so, the cover is removed and the agave hearts are crushed by a big rock wheel pulled by a horse or ox.

After being crushed, the agave ‘pulp’ is put into a vat with some water and left to ferment for several days.

Once it reaches the proper level of fermentation the liquid is drained from the vats and then goes through a distillation process twice or even three times. To be classified as ‘artisanal’ only simple (“moonshine style”) stills can be used. To be classified as ‘ancestral’ the still cannot be made of metal - typically a clay pot is used.

An artisanal still at Discípulo.

And later we visited Un Día a la Vez (“one day at a time”) Mezcaleria where they have what I think is an ancestral still, although the steam from the clay pot condenses onto a metal lid that is cooled with flowing water, so I’m not sure it is officially ‘ancestral’.

After learning about the plants and the process we tasted a lot of Mezcals. Many of the varieties are predictable, such as different types of agave, Mezcal aged in whiskey or other barrels, aged for longer times, etc. But many are very eclectic. In addition to the predictable stuff, we tried:

• Mezcal with the “worm” (actually the larva of a moth that can infest agave plante)
• Mezcal with a scorpion in the bottle (supposedly adds a muscle relaxation property)
• Mezcal where a raw turkey breast is suspended in the still for the second distillation - unexpectedly seems to add a fruity essence
• Mezcal aged in bottle with cannabis leaves

We also tried some “froo froo” Mezcal drinks with coconut, pineapple, or cream added.

Fortunately we went to the restaurant Doña Chica in the middle of the tour where we had a huge lunch.

An interesting day that left us ready to chill out for the evening in our little apartment.

March 14, 2026

We had reservations for a tour to Monte Albán, a major archeological site, that started at 8:00am. We got up a bit early and just had some left-over pizza and pastries for breakfast and then headed to the tour office. We rode a bus with about thirty people across part of the city and then up a steep, winding road to the top of the large hill where Monte Albán is located.

It is unclear exactly how the name “Monte Albán” originated. According to our tour guide this site, which was a ceremonial gathering place as well as housing the elites of the Zapotec empire, should be named something along the lines of “city of jaguars”. It is an impressive site - the Zapotecs leveled the top of this substantial hill and constructed a huge plaza that could hold tens of thousands of people for ceremonies and events. The site was in use from around 500 BCE to 900 or 1000 CE, so it represents the center or a major center of one of the longest-standing empires. Because it had already been abandoned by the time Spanish Conquistadors arrived, they didn’t feel the need to build churches atop the pyramids and otherwise try to destroy it.

We walked around with the tour guide for a couple of hours, then had some time afterwards to wander as we wanted.

Our guide says this is one of a handful of the most important archeological sites in the Americas, another one of which is Machu Picchu which we have been fortunate to have also visited.

After the tour we stopped at a huge supermarket to pick up some stuff for our room, then we went to Vino & Vinyl and had a really tasty late lunch. You can add albums to the ‘playlist’ from their large selection.

We were pretty tired after that and hung out in our little apartment researching what to do on Sunday.

March 13, 2026

Today is the fourth Friday of Lent (La Cuaresma), and a uniquely Oaxacan tradition is to celebrate El Día de la Samaritana. This tradition dates back to some time in the 1800’s when a couple of churches handed out water while preaching about the story where Jesus is crossing Samaria. In the story (as I, an atheist, understand it) the people of Samaria were not getting along with the Jews at the time. Jesus stopped near a the well of Jacob, thirsty from the journey, and a Samaritan woman ended up giving him some water despite their differences. Other churches in the area began copying this tradition and it has become a celebration of Oaxacan generosity based on religion but now open to all. Many restaurants and bars join the churches in handing out water-based drinks starting around noon on the fourth Friday of Lent. Many serve the drinks either from big clay pots or from coolers decorated to try to suggest a well.

We had our normal class in the morning, but at noon someone from the school brought some big coolers full of orchata and tuna (not the fish, which is atún, but a sweet fruit of a cactus) and we all got cups of orchata con tuna to drink. Then we did a little bit of class work before going with our instructors out in the streets with our cups to take part in the celebrations.

I had a substitute instructor for the afternoon today. During the class part she gave me a little printout of various Mexican slang words and expressions - very important stuff to know, carnalitos! Then she set out in search of a chilacayote (a type of squash) drink. We eventually found a gift shop serving it. The taste reminded me of rice milk, but my instructor said this was not a good example, and that they must not have made it correctly. We ended up not finishing those drinks but we found some peanut-flavored water that was very tasty, and later some jamaica (hibiscus) water. The streets were crowded, especially near the churches, and people were having a good time.

After the instructors left we wandered around a bit more with our cups. The event had mostly ended but we did find a restaurant that gave us some orchata with cantaloupe chunks in it that was really tasty. We were a bit tired so we chilled out in our little apartment for a while, then we went to the restaurant attached to the Boulenc bakery that we have been enjoying pastries from. We got some really tasty pizzas and now we have some leftovers as well.